Open To Buy
The Retail Business Section — lots of affiliate reads
Fresh Receipts — The all handbag edition
Denim Experts
Asking The Denim Trend Experts
From Denim Trends to Retail Strategy
Denim on the Runway
Get Me An Expert!
Denim Footnotes
In this send: You asked about denim trends for fall, so I called up the experts across the brands we trust, retailers we love, denim designers, and the stylists we trust. Plus: Volleyball, Ben Edelman, affiliates, MLMs, Rachel Scott, Valesque, no logo handbags, ToteMEN, Nelle Atelier, Jane Herman, Rùadh, TWP, Benjamin Talley Smith, Still Here, Evereve, Agolde, Citizen of Humanity, Lauren Sharkey, dirty denim, 90’s sensibility, big cuffs, indigo, tailored, western inspired.
What jeans are you buying? Do you agree with the trends? What did we miss?
The Retail Business Section
Bump, Set, Spike: Left on Friday, the active and swimwear brand, is going all in on beach volleyball. They announced a new global partnership with Volleyball World making it the official apparel partner of the Beach World Series and Elite Beach Volleyball. LoF will be outfitting every athlete, staff member, and producing men’s singlets for the first time in the brand’s history. It’s the brand’s biggest investment in volleyball to date and builds on their support of outfitting Team Canada for the Olympics.
For context, and why I find this interesting, in the Bay Area I’ve seen volleyball take off as one of the top sports for junior high and high school girls. Along with flag football (for boys and girls), soccer, and swimming, volleyball is incredibly spirited and a dominant sport in the area.
The Homepage takeover for Left on Friday’s volleyball partnership launch was fun (the cursor turned into a volleyball) and the colors and kit look exciting and functional. And the brand has been promoting their bikini tops as doing double duty as a sports bra* now that swim season is starting to slow down.
Seeing Left on Friday take more of a position in a growing sport can be very good for their brand and growth where there aren’t a lot of options in fashion activewear.
Setting new records: Lindsey Carter posted on Instagram Stories that the Set Coastline launch was the highest revenue limited edition drop day in Set history. My follow up questions would be: what was the SKU count versus other drops, average retails versus other drops, and did they see any drop off on conversion for styles that were on backorder.
More Affiliate
HeadlinesHeadaches: Ben Edelman, the researcher and consultant who discovered the Phia’s cookie-stuffing situation, has now posted on his site about ShopMy. Also read Diana Pearl’s reporting for Business of Fashion. As Edelman explains it: each network can only see its own links, so two networks can both end up honestly claiming credit for the same sale. The fix is supposed to be figuring out who was actually last. But Edelman's post shows ShopMy's own guidance tells merchants to skip that step and just pay ShopMy.Still Curious About Affiliates?: This article from Bloomberg written by Cheryl Wischhover breaks down a lot of the stats and finances for brands behind ShopMy. (Way to go Grace Atwood — she is the GOAT, nicest human, and I 1,000 percent trust her recs.)
I don’t exactly agree with the MLM comparison one person makes, except for the referral of someone else to sign up for an account. I see the seedy nature of MLMs to be that people have to buy their way in (example, purchasing their inventory to sell) and the more that are in the MLM the less of a consumer base there is. I don’t see that here. The question I would ask, which is a characteristic I see with MLMs, is as there are more affiliate links out in the world, does each influencer see their volume go down. Someone like Atwood suggests this isn’t uniformly true. The subset that is sharing links in the group chat might be messy and diluting the business.
The openness is one of the structural differences I noticed from LTK, the first mover in fashion and lifestyle affiliate marketing. LTK built its business as a gatekeeper early on. Hard to get into, high follower count required, while ShopMy went the other way and made itself far more inclusive. In the Bloomberg article, Tiffany Lopinsky, ShopMy’s Co-Founder and President, explains the strategy is finding sellers and keeping them active. As she states, the brands just need people with a couple thousand engaged followers.
Affiliate links are really taking the idea that influencers, people you trust — wherever they are, whoever they are — are who you want to buy from more than a traditional ad. The benefit to retailers and brands is you can really track the customer journey and who is converting and ShopMy has excellent data for both creators and brands/retailers.
For your weekend walk: I enjoyed this podcast interview from Who What Wear with Rachel Scott, the founder of Diotima and Creative Director at Proenza Schouler.
ToteMEN: Men’s Toteme has arrived and they have the option to wear a scoat now too (that’s a scarf + coat).
Fresh Handbag Receipts
I am still obsessed with my Valesque handbags and noted a few new ones that haven’t sold out. Yet. This silhouette is very similar to my most used one at the moment.
Speaking of which, my most used Valesque handbag is also available in navy! Everyone I mention this bag to 1) immediately buys and 2) mentions that it reminds them of early Kate Spade or vintage Prada nylon.
If you like your handbags with a little more structure, this looks fantastic! This is a whole genre of minimal, no logo, simple handbags that I’m here for. Another in an excellent shape.
I’ll keep with the no logo, or minimal logo, theme. Métier has some gorgeous new colors. I call this one icy grey. Adding to the belted tote category, this one is spectacular from all sides.
Toteme shrunk the belted tote. I need to think through this pricing strategy for each size. I have the large and bought in navy from eBay. This is a great bag to buy secondhand.
Toteme’s belted tote assortment. 👖 Quick note: I write a lot (too much good stuff to share!) If you’re reading via email only, you may need to click through to the web version or read on the Substack app. I promise it will be worth it. 👖
Asking The Denim Trend Experts
I’ve been tracking as many denim activations this fall as I can — from Gap’s 1996 collab with Hailey Bieber, J.Crew’s latest campaign, American Eagle partnering with football star Lamine Yamal briefly rebranding to “Lamine’s Eagles” and renaming a bestseller the AE 19 in his honor, Re/Done’s edit with Kaia Gerber — and a reader asked me about what the predominating trend(s) in denim silhouettes are this year.
Before we go any further, I hope it goes without saying, wear whatever makes you feel good when you wear it. That never changes and can be different for everyone. But it’s also fun to be curious and dig into the why and context behind the trends and noise. Plus it gives me another opportunity to chat retail strategy.
Two years ago, the answer was obvious. I called barrel jeans the champion silhouette of Fall 2024 in Marie Claire that September in Emma Childs article (she is now writing for The Cut). I watched this silhouette go from a side-eye, “tricky” shape, early-adopter style in 2023 to something shoppers were excited and comfortable to play with a year later. That single silhouette dominance isn’t what I’m seeing this year.
So I called in the experts. I reached out to a range of brands, retailers, stylists, and denim insiders and asked them all about denim trends for Fall 2026. What are you actually seeing move and what are you excited about.
P.S. If you want a playlist to listen to, I found this one from NPR on Songs About Jeans
From Denim Trends to Retail Strategy
There’s a reason I watch denim so closely as a category every season. At the beginning of fall and spring, especially during those “in between” transitions we see brands, retailers, influencers, and editorial all sharing the new must-have silhouette. Why??1
Brands and retailers need to get your attention on to something new to add to cart.
Trends shifts. Different groups (demographics, sub-cultures, etc) grab onto different styles. I love how once “Mom Jeans” was a total turn off (thanks SNL) and then it became the cool pair to wear with the higher waist. Now even American Eagle has a category landing page for “mom jeans for women”.
Fashion influencers and fashion people who we watch to set the trends also tend to want to try something new. There are also influencers who tend to have the same style year after year and don’t set trends or jump on new ones, but it’s a mix.
There is something for everyone - usually.
There are typically a few denim trends rather than just a singular style. If you aren’t into one, you can try another. It wouldn’t be in a brand or retailer’s best interest to only give you one thing. They know that shoppers gravitate to different options.
Denim needs to work back to other trends. I’m thinking about shoes specifically. If we want knee high boots we need a skinny jean to show them off. What you wear with bootcut jeans is going to be different than a tapered ankle silhouette. As I’ve been highlighting the low profile shoes, I keep thinking about what jeans and pants work best here.
Consumer behavior insights
Are we embracing something completely new and innovative? Some styles take more than one season to adapt for a larger audience. Barrel legs were once on the fringe, then were everywhere, and now almost feel like a classic shape. Or at least one that is in the mix.
Economic trends. If consumers are pulling back spending then the denim category might be something they are willing to shop for because they know they will wear it for a few years. But maybe then you want to stick with something more classic or even buy a secondhand vintage style.
Denim on the Runway
Let’s go back and look at a few inspirational pants silhouettes from recent runway shows. The ones to reference are Dior, Celine, Versace, Ralph Lauren. Dior has embellished denim with crystal scallop details, relaxed denim mixed with this feminine detail. Celine’s fitted and more tapered silhouette. Versace’s colors and crops. Very fitted. Ralph Lauren menswear in a preppy classic collegiate style. Even the designers — notably Jonathan Anderson and Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, are creating inspiration with their own clothing choices for runway waves. I wonder if the Chanel “denim” in blue and white chiffon will also inspire more ready-to-wear looks? (Try Haikure’s silk jeans.)
Get Me An Expert!
What the insiders are seeing, but first let me introduce the experts and brands:
Madeline Cohen the founder of Nelle Atelier (an option I recommend for petites)
Jane Herman a denim expert who writes the Substack aptly named Jane on Jeans. She is a former Vogue editor and has her denim line The Only Jane that is made in L.A.
Benjamin Talley Smith is a denim designer and consultant. He has worked on Khaite, Aflalo, Reformation, J.Crew, Madewell, and Guest in Residence (launching September 15th). For more on Smith check out this article by Vanessa Friedman in the NYTimes (gift link). Because he works behind the scenes (seams!) and has years of expertise and influence over what styles we are wearing I find his thoughts really interesting and helpful.
Jac Cameron is the Founder and Creative Director of Rùadh and after working and designing for other major brands she has been working on her own line since launching in 2024. Rùadh is now B Corp certified.
Sonia Mosseri is the Co-Founder and Creative Director of Still Here. I highly recommend going to visit their boutiques to try on denim and flip through their denim guides to find your fit or view their Denim Library online. The West Village is their newest and largest store and their UES location on Madison also carries vintage.
Katheryn LaFin-Petersen is the Director of Buying and Product Integration at Evereve. When I was researching and reporting on Evereve in shopper interviews it kept coming up as a favorite spot to find jeans that fit.
Lauren Sharkey is a stylist helping men and women get dressed for everyday. She has a Substack: GET STYLED: by lauren sharkey
I’ve also gathered insights from more brands: TWP, Citizen of Humanity, and Agolde.
Let’s set the stage with Jac Cameron from Rùadh who also agrees with me that this season we are not seeing just one dominant trend. She tells me:
“I continue to see a real breadth of opportunity to diversify denim fits and washes for Fall 2026. There seems to be a growing appetite for a more nuanced denim wardrobe, moving beyond a single dominant silhouette and giving women greater choice in proportion, shape and attitude.
For Fall, I see an opportunity to explore everything from more relaxed, oversized and fluid shapes to refined, elongated silhouettes and more directional proportions. The return to deeper, richer washes also feels important, alongside more considered vintage-inspired treatments and cleaner, elevated finishes. I think the most interesting denim will feel intentional rather than overly trend-driven, with the distinction coming through in proportion, wash and fabrication.” — Jac Cameron
Straight & Cigarette
Madeline Cohen: “DESPITE the Hailey Bieber Gap collab extravaganza, pant legs are coming in. We are seeing a lift in Claire Vintage and Kate since the beginning of august. I think we are going to see a shift toward a more polished look this fall (and I say this as someone who bought the HB jeans). Slimmer legs are more democratic and overall easier to style. I also think this coincides with the majority of people's return to office (at least 2-3 days a week) where the low slung baggy look may just not work for most workplaces.”
Sonia Mosseri: “The Life Jean is the classic one, a mid rise straight leg that has the feel of a really great vintage fit, something our customer can come back to with every outfit, every day. And the 11 Jean is the newest fit I think our customer will be drawn to this Fall. It sits lower and slimmer than anything else in the line, with a snap closure at the waist and zippers at the ankle so you can adjust the leg to whatever the night calls for. It has an early 2010s feeling to it and feels relevant.”
Benjamin Talley Smith: “Low Rise Straight in high processed washes. Hearkening back to my high school days, all the girls are buying old Diesel jeans on Depop and Poshmark or wherever they can get their hands on them. Referencing this Olivia Rodrigo jean from Coachella. One I’m doing is the Reformation Charlee Low Rise Straight.
Jac Cameron: “At Rùadh i am seeing slimmer straight-leg fits continuing to feel relevant, particularly through a focus on mid- to low-rise proportions. I also see strong potential in a relaxed slim-leg jean, offering a sense of casual ease while still maintaining a considered silhouette.”
Katheryn LaFin-Petersen: “Driven by strong ’90s influences, this cut is set to be the season's breakout trend.”
Lauren Sharkey: “A sharp cigarette silhouette - an obvious extension from last winter and a shape that’s being praised by millennials around the world as a return to normalcy from the low loose approach of the past few years. The high structured piece qualifies them as what I can a sitting pant. They look great at a cocktail hour, in a presentation (favorable shape for the office) or photo moment but don’t torture yourself in these for a cross country flight. My picks: Still Here | Same”
TWP: “The TWP Kent Street jean continues to perform, and the Paris wash is especially popular.”
Citizen of Humanity: “After several seasons of low-rise, oversized, and ultra-relaxed proportions, there’s a real appetite for a more elongated, body-skimming line. Key silhouettes for us include the Savannah, a low-rise, slim straight inspired by the clean minimalism of the ’90s; the 90s French, a high-rise silhouette that fits close through the body before falling into a straight leg”
Agolde: “For Fall ’26, we’re seeing a move toward straighter, slimmer-leg silhouettes and a continued shift toward mid- and low-rise fits. At the same time, there’s still room for volume, but it feels more intentional and considered. Vintage-inspired, rigid denim remains important, with darker, moodier washes like Rinse giving these silhouettes a more refined point of view.”
Wash & Color Driven
From Trendalytics: “Ecru jeans have jumped +200 percent among key influencers, while olive green jeans see a +90 percent increase in market adoption.”
Sonia Mosseri: “There's a shift happening toward denim you can build a relationship with. Our customer isn't chasing a season; they're looking for the jean they'll still reach for in three years, and that usually comes down to the wash and the small details. Fall pulls our palette deeper, with indigo, black, army green, and a deep purple. We're bringing those last two to both the Cool Jean and the Everyday Jean, because those are the fits our customer is always returning to.”
Jane Herman: “We're still in a moment where all fits go – baggy, high-rise, low-rise, barrel, slim... Personally, I'm reaching for jeans with dirtier washes and distinctive hardware. It's more about having the right finishing (vs a trendy fit) this fall.”
Lauren Sharkey: “I sound like a broken record, but I will always advocate for an earth tone pair (ranging from tan to camel to chocolate) for nearly every closet I encounter - and often, even before the traditional black. This range of shades quietly nods to the traditional tones, hues and expectations of the season without overdosing on fall/boho. And for many women, they can be styled for the office. I personally love balancing them with a charcoal grey tee + blazer. My picks: La Ligne (tall girl friendly inseam), Staud (here as well), Agolde Now, the warmer tones have evolved a bit this year bringing burgundies and rust tones to the forefront, feels very Chloe inspired. These tones are shockingly practical when approached from a monochromatic and/or color blocking angle, either shade looks divine with a deep navy. My picks: Abercrombie | Still Here”
Sarah (me): I’m seeing the “dirty denim” as a nod to lived in and vintage not perfect denim. My choices here are to go for actual vintage denim. Stylist Elyse Winter suggested Denim Revival to me and I recently found a great pair there that is perfect for me. I also see this dirty denim as a painted wash like we saw at Ralph Lauren. See Jamie Haller too. The other color trend I’m seeing is the opposite, and more sharp primary shades. Very saturated. I’ve been most intrigued by red and blue denim.
Citizen of Humanity: “For Fall 2026, we’re exploring more depth and definition in our silhouettes, with a strong through line of ’90s sensibility. We’re returning to inkier hues and deep indigos, particularly across cigarette, stovepipe and slimmer straight-leg shapes. The line overall feels closer to the body and a little more polished.”
Lauren Sharkey: “A deep indigo shade is an easy yes for more elevated environments from work to dinners. The rich inky shade is a natural answer to fall as closets tend to shift to represent deeper tones and jewel tones in general. There’s strong options across a range of silhouettes from the sharp cigarettes to those slouchy straight legs. My picks: Citizens | Frame, Agolde”
Wide Leg & Barrel
Madeline Cohen: “I continue to see movement in wide legs with a more fitted top block. This is overall a more flattering cut than a true baggy. Could also be because our customer skews more millenial than gen Z but we sold a ton of Kiki Jeans this summer to chic girls in their late 20's/early 30's.”
Benjamin Talley Smith: “This trend has been around but doesn’t seem to be stopping anytime soon. It's so chic with heels for night. I do multiple iterations from the super high end like the Delmonico jean from Khaite or even the more approachable for Fabletics.”
Katheryn LaFin-Petersen: “Barrel and Arc legs: They’re easy and effortlessly cool, especially styled up for work or a night out.”
Agolde: “The Spiral is a refined take on the barrel shape that moves effortlessly around the body.”
Jac Cameron: “I find myself moving between relaxed fits that are cut with a sense of ease like the Olympia and Bijou jean and more form-fitting silhouettes, like the Agnes jean that offer structure, definition, and great hold. That tension between ease and structure feels important to the collection and allows the denim offering to speak to different ways of dressing and different expressions of the woman.”
Bootcut
From Trendalytics: “Bootcut jeans are up +158 percent among key influencers, while street-style favorite puddle jeans are up +148 percent in searches to last year.”
Madeline Cohen: “I am so excited about a bootcut revival. I am seeing what I've affectionately called baby bootcuts - we actually launched this early last spring and it didn't move much but all of a sudden it's picking up. We have the Rachel in Onyx and are launching it in our Lapis wash in October, and probably on preorder a bit sooner than that. I think this feeds into the overall western vibes I've been getting recently. More suede, fringe, bandana print everywhere (I am personally obsessed), it's all giving 90's Ralph Lauren in the best way.”
Benjamin Talley Smith: “With the return of the low-rise silhouette popular in the early 2000s, you're going to see a lot more of this style of cut. Thankfully, it's not a low rise skinny jean. The boot cut gives it an elevated feel (jeans I am doing in this vein include the Khaite Conforti jean, which launches any day now, as well as the jean worn by Sarah Pigeon called the Conner that hasn’t released yet) Other market favorites include the Frame Grey jean.”
Tailored, Structured Baggy
Jac Cameron: “Top loves from me include the Crewe jean for a more tailored look. The Raasay jean has become a true Rùadh classic, and one of the things that excites me most is seeing a non-traditional silhouette evolve into a core style for the brand. I think there is a real opportunity for more of these crop gaucho-inspired shapes to come through for Fall 2026. They offer a fresh alternative to the more familiar straight and wide-leg proportions, while still feeling incredibly wearable.”
Lauren Sharkey: “Well tailored baggy fit - selfishly I’m not ready to give up baggy, slouchy jeans (especially being pregnant) but the pairs I’m prioritizing for clients these season balance the overarching loose fit with tailored elements. I’ve found that the average mom in the Chicago suburbs doesn’t resonate with a slouchy all over pair - she craves a bit of polish and structure and that’s available to her in a more meaningful way this season. My picks: Argent | TWP And Denim culottes even deep into fall (with tall boots) - for the fearless fashion gals. A if you know, you know piece. My picks: Aritzia | The Frankie Shop”
A Few More Options:
Work Jeans:
Benjamin Talley Smith: “The painter jean still lives on. It's been a staple and continues to be relevant. With subtle iterations like the Nili patch pocket the classic painter has been reimagined. I’m doing it here- J.Crew Painter, Ulla Johson Olympia jean — with a fresh new style coming from Guest In Residence in Sept called the Workday Jean )”
Sarah (me again): I am seeing this painter style everywhere and I keep thinking back to when Jenn Lyons was interviewed by Anna Kodé for the NYTimes about her stoop sale in 2024 (gift link) I was more drawn to the pants she was wearing — Carhartt WIP double knee pants. So when I see this style popping up now I wonder if JFL was the inspiration. Another brand, Renggli, has had this style in their rotation for some time. This pair fits in with the work style but in a hot hot pink for Gen Z-Alpha.
Cuff It:
Benjamin Talley Smith: “Both high and low cuffs, but lots of cuffed jeans. They ground a dark jean and give a little pop (jeans I’m doing: Khaite Karo, J.Crew Exaggerated Barrel).” [Note from Sarah: I like this because it is giving us a reason and way to try something new. I’m also loving how the J.Crew pair are styled with the layered baggy t-shirts. Reminds me of this look.)
Agolde: Extreme big cuff from the appropriately named “Big Cuff Jean”. “The Big Cuff exaggerates a classic straight leg with a dramatic cuff that can be personalized depending on how it’s styled.”
The 80s Peg: Both Citizens of Humanity Taper and Agolde’s 80s Taper Jean (both owned by Citizens of Humanity Group LLC) with independent design teams have reference this silhouette as a trend for fall 2026.
“Overall, denim for Fall feels more refined and intentional — clean finishes, distinct proportions and silhouettes that have personality while still feeling like enduring wardrobe pieces.” from Agolde’s design team
Denim Footnotes
I love Jane Herman’s footnotes where she shares insights on what shoes to pair with denim. Because so many people dress from the feet up, and we have specific shoe styles that trend too. And when those shoes change the denim trends get impacted. I asked Jane for some recommendations based on dressing from the feet up.
Private Label: Based on low profile ballet flats, loafers, sneakers etc which denim styles go best with this type of shoe?
Jane Herman: In general, I don't like not seeing feet when wearing jeans (or anything else. Footless is not a good look!). For low profile shoes, I like a straight, cigarette style (I just tried this one and it's great), especially now that slimmer fits feel so right again. Jeans with this leg shape can be flexible on length – cropped, ankle-length, or long and tapered – all work.
Private Label: Any predictions based on what boots people will wear for fall/winter and the jeans that pair best?
Jane Herman: Western-inspired boots are still happening. A good bootcut is a good idea. I like this one from Buck Mason, and the NIli Lotan Joan (in the Simon wash), which is so beautiful with big-heeled boots. Oh! And Mother's Reifler is perfect and comes in multiple inseams, which is necessary for a jean with spur bites at the hems.
That wraps up the denim fall forecast. What styles are you gravitating towards?
Made just for you — always. See you Tuesday
xx, Sarah Shapiro
Private Label Issue 37
Catching Up:
Deep Dive: Tween Rebels and J.Crew Goes Vintage
PSA: If you are reading this Thursday morning, today August 20th, I’ll be hosting a virtual conversation with The Co-lab about going from corporate retail to journalism and now fully independent with Private Label. Hope to see you soon. More details
Deep Dive: Sézane Says It's Slowing Down
Hi! It’s been a busy reporting week at Private Label HQ (my 4 foot desk) since I also published a story for Puck’s Line Sheet on the key items in each summer category with the data from ShopMy. You can read it here and see the shorts, swimwear, sunglasses, and sandals — and as Lauren Sherman wrote in the emailed newsletter: “It’s riveting. It’s insightful. It tells you everything you need to know about the current consumer psyche!”
❤️ If you enjoyed this newsletter please click the like button at the bottom of this post so others can discover it.
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Have a question, comment, tip, the inside scoop, or ever want to reach me directly — email me at sarah@privatelabel.ltd
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Quick note: some links here are affiliate links — I may earn a small commission if you shop through them, at no cost to you. It helps keep this newsletter going. Gifted items are marked with an *. All opinions are my own, and everything I share, I’d tell my best friend about and probably already have.
This section has been edited and updated from a piece I originally wrote for Retail Diary in 2024.
The Left on Friday volleyball line is so exciting. I have two kids in Santa Monica who play high school beach volleyball. It’s fun to see the sport get recognition with the fashion brand.
Loved this, especially the skinny-to-baggy-and-back cycle. Going straight to the experts is the right call.