Deep Dive: Sézane Says It's Slowing Down

I'm decoding Sézane's rebrand. Plus, August is stacked with new beauty launches.

Hi! It’s been a busy reporting week at Private Label HQ (my 4 foot desk) since I also published a story for Puck’s Line Sheet on the key items in each summer category with the data from ShopMy. You can read it here and see the shorts, swimwear, sunglasses, and sandals — and as Lauren Sherman wrote in the emailed newsletter: “It’s riveting. It’s insightful. It tells you everything you need to know about the current consumer psyche!”

PSA: Next Thursday, August 20th, I’ll be hosting a virtual conversation with The Co-lab about going from corporate retail to journalism and now fully independent with Private Label. If you have any questions you can email me ahead of time at sarah@privatelabel.ltd and I hope you’ll join our conversation. More details here. And if you aren’t familiar with the Co-lab you should follow Kristy Hurt and check it out.

Deep Dive

• New Collabs — I started a Love Shack Fancy collab tracker

• New Launches — next week is HUGE for Sephora and beauty brands

• Private Label Job Board — are you looking?

• New Store Openings & Pop-Ups

• Sézane’s Croissance Lente — What does slow growth mean for Sézane?

• People in the News

• In My Feed — stocks, Phia cookie-stuffing update, and more sorority branding

In this send: Sézane shared that in their rebrand they will be slowing down. I took at look at what shoppers actually want, how the investors play into it, and what I’m keeping my eyes on. Plus: Citizen of Humanity x Jennifer Meyer, Daily Drills, my growing Love Shack Fancy collab tracker, Benjamin Talley Smith, “Dancing On My Own,” purple-and-red, Palisades Village, Zendaya’s button-back engagement ring, a Tory Burch bag with a 30,000 person waitlist, Chanel’s 100 percent mark-up on secondhand handbags, the Phia cookie-stuffing, Acquired Style's wedding dress drama, and I’m curious what you think of Sézane’s upcoming rebrand?

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New Collabs

• Citizen of Humanity launched a collab with Jennifer Meyer, the jewelry designer. The vintage inspired jeans look really great and Citizen of Humanity and Agolde have some of the best denim out there at a competitive retail.

• After collab'ing on a sweatshirt with ShopMy earlier this summer, Daily Drills is back at it with a sweatshirt collab with The Montauk General Store. Daily Drills did a whole Out East collection too. Daily Drills is another one of those brands I’d bucket as a “sweatshirt” brand but they have a lot of workout and lounge sets.

• Love Shack Fancy again! Do I create a LSF collab tracker? Yes — it’s here. Mane x Love Shack Fancy. Here is what I’m thinking about — we literally just had the Wet Brush x Goody x Love Shack Fancy collab as part of the Target collab. Which leads me to think that the brands LSF collabs with don’t care that there is similar product already out there. Wet Brush = $18.99 and Mane = $25. Mane x LSF also has clips and a thermal brush. If your dorm room is all decked out you certainly need this to match.¹ I’m feeling like a collab with this brand should be on the horizon.

• I want to do a deeper dive on Favorite Daughter’s current business. I found it a little interesting, but not completely surprising, that they are doing a collab with Stitch Fix.

• This is giving me old school GWP feels. Clinique x Rifle Paper Co for their gift with purchase (GWP).

• Stanley x Farm Rio. The prints and charms are fun. I’m noticing mostly Owala water bottles out and about though.

New Launches

An Embarrassment of Beauty Riches

• m.ph beauty by Mary Phillips is expanding the lip category with a new gloss in 8 shades out August 20th on the Sephora app (loyalist enjoy first) and then the m.ph DTC site on 8/21. This gloss joins the Lip Ciggy and Overliner Lip Pencil.

• Sarah Creal is launching ph Lip Liner on 8/17 in the Sephora app. This lip liner with this lip repair serum from the brand is what I’m most likely to order as I’ve heard great things about the lip serum and want to test it out. I’m also a huge fan of this product from Sarah Creal.

• Tower28 Beauty is launching a foundation (another foundation + skincare serum — time for me to do a Forecast for this). To partner with their Swipe Serum Concealer (in 28 shades) they have 36 shades of the new Swipe Serum Foundation launching 8/20 (a big launch day at Sephora). On Instagram they marketed that no AI was used — real models!

• InnBeauty Project is launching the Extreme Cleanse Milky Micellar Barrier Repair (I don’t even think I can say that one time fast, let alone three times) and all I can think is “milky jelly cleanser, is that you?” Said with respect. Smart move InnBeauty Project. Once this launches I would love to see the Sephora sales recaps of these two products side by side.

• Saie is launching their first eyeshadow on 8/17. They will have 6 matte shades and 5 shimmer shades.

• Let’s track all the August Beauty launches here. What are you most excited about?

• Soft Services is celebrating their 5 year Anniversary! To celebrate they are doing a 10 percent off promotion and have released some fun merch like the Guess inspired denim tote bag. I am a repeat buyer from Soft Services and have 3 of the hand lotions strategically placed across my house. My desk, my nightstand, and the kitchen sink. This is my nightstand scent and is my favorite. Another product I always have in stock is this buffing bar. And how absolutely adorable is their mini shop? The minis are only available twice a year, a smart marketing move, so if you like travel minis or want to stock your guest room bathroom grab them now.

Fashion Launches Happening Too

• Posse pre-fall collection is now available. A few of the items worth calling out: A scoat, polka dots for pre-fall, a red leopard cardi (available in black combo too), an easy 3/4 sleeve bateau neckline top, and balloon pants I added to the Balloon Pant Forecast here. For more background on the Posse brand, check out Jess Graves post here.

Denim Season

Pre-fall transition time period and back-to-school means major denim vibes. Denim is always a hero category in those shoulder seasons when you aren’t sure what to focus on.

• We have recently seen the Gap x Hailey Bieber, this week was another new Gap campaign with Malcom Todd and Inde Navarrette. How far out do these songs get picked? Because this song got really popular in July although it was originally released in 2010. It was featured in the movie from June 2026, “Voicemails for Isabelle”.

• Guest in Residence — Benjamin Talley Smith worked with Gigi Hadid, the Creative Director of GIR, to develop the denim category expansion. Smith has worked with Khaite, Madewell, La Ligne, Reformation, Aflalo and more on developing denim lines. The prices will be $265 to $325. There will be 4 styles launching in September. What has stuck with me, is when Molly Howard shared that they knew it was time to develop and launch La Ligne’s denim category because customers would always ask which denim they were pairing with the La Ligne sweaters on the product detail pages (PDP). My assumption is that something like that was happening with GIR. Additionally, if a shopper is buying a sweater or top from a brand the denim is different enough that it isn’t like the shopper is deciding between two different sweaters. They are going to possibly be shopping for both. Increase that Average Order Volume (AOV). [WWD]

• With Nothing Underneath is launching their denim at the end of August. I wrote a Private Label — Label Check on the brand WNU here if you want more insights on the brand. Similar to GIR it makes sense for a brand that is creating excellent tops to expand. But to go into denim you have to know that you are going to nail the fit. New blouses from the brand already have the images styled with denim.

• Plenty of other recently denim launches that I’ve been tracking so check out the Private Label archive if you want to catch up. For example, TWP denim and the Kaia Gerber edit for Re/done.

Ballet Flats 🌀

• A fun little fashion spiral 🌀 on Alex Mill and ballet flats:

  • I noticed last week they changed the color of their avatar logo on Instagram to a purple and red shade — specifically a color combo that has been trending this pre-fall season.

  • They launched these new ballet flats with the purple and red showing prominently. $228 for the ballet flats.

  • I wonder if they will do a fun hand-painting event at their SoHo store to launch the ballet flats? Similar to how they customize their totes. As long as they wear well on the crinkly patent material. Mansur Gavriel, Freda Salvador, and many others have done activations like this.

  • Last fall they collabed with Margaux (and again for a hot summer sandal, the Selene) the flat mule last fall was $325. The Selene is also $325. Margaux has their own Demi ballet flat for $290.

  • Previously Alex Mill has partnered with Italian shoemaker Porselli to bring in their ballet flats. This feels like a bigger push into shoes with their own ballet flat after testing the waters with Margaux. Wonder if they did the Private Label for them??!

Private Label Job Board

I received a few messages asking about the retail industry and careers. I’ve also had some amazing brands reach out sharing what they are looking for right now. Could it be you? Know someone who would be a great fit? Forward this newsletter along.

• Donni — casual, everyday clothing essentials based in Los Angeles. Founded by Alyssa Wasko Stein Interested in any of these roles? Send an email to careers@shopdonni.com

  • Director of Product Development and Production

  • Director of Merchandising

  • Customer Service/Stylist

  • Fractional Human Resources (at a VP Level)

• Dorsey — Megan Alida Strachan’s heritage-inspired, high quality jewelry using lab-grown stones and sold direct to consumer. They are currently hiring:

  • Senior Graphic Designer

  • Junior Graphic Designer

  • Video Editor

  • Email Marketing Manager

  • Ecommerce Director

• Evereve is hiring a VP of Brand Design & Experience for the Edina, MN based specialty retailer. See more details here. More about the brand here.

• McMullen in San Francisco is expanding with a new Flagship boutique and is hiring for multiple positions in buying, styling, and sales suppor.

• ShopMy is hiring a Director of PR & Communications.

New Store Openings

• After the fire destroyed Palisades Village stores in January 2025 they have been rebuilding. The grand re-opening is August 15th. There are old favorites like Elyse Walker, and new stores opening, like Leset’s first west coast outpost. More stores to shop: Jacques Marie Mage, Xirena (you know them for the crinkle cotton dresses and sets), Veronica Beard, Anine Bing, Cult Gaia, Buck Mason, Reformation, Isabel Marant, Zimmermann, Toteme, Byredo, Violet Grey and of course restaurants and coffee spots to make it a true lifestyle experience.

• Jessica McCormack opens their second U.S. location and first California location not in Beverly Hills, but at South Coast Plaza at the end of August. The boldest, coolest, most interesting diamond jewelry — button back settings — with Zoe Kravitz as the brand ambassador and Zendaya’s engagement ring.

• Golden Goose also just opened at South Coast Plaza. At this location they have on-site cobblers and repair services as well as a customization experience.

• Hill House Home now has a permanent location in Naples.

• Aritzia opened a store in New Orleans at the Lakeside Shopping Center. P.S. Have you seen the Aritzia quarter-zip sweater?

• Still Here (I love their store experience) opened a new West Village location at 89 Christopher Street. The pair I’m itching to try-on are back in stock.

• Frances Valentine is opening in Charleston!

Pop-Ups

• Stalle Studio, email for an appointment, at the Violet Grey in East Hampton. 8/15-8/16

• Vintage treasures at the ReSee pop-up in the Hamptons through 8/16

• On the other end of the pop-up spectrum, brands are taking advantage of back to school and sorority rush. Peppermayo has an Austin, TX pop-up. I love that on their Homepage the brand is leaning into “The Rush” with sorority rush and rush delivery. Smart.

Sézane’s Croissance Lente (slow growth)

Sézane, the French brand with 13 U.S. stores (a mix of permanent stores and long-term pop-ups), has been on my radar since I heard whispers of a rebrand this past spring from a variety of sources. The brand made it official with a Vogue Business article and timed well with a refresh of their Brentwood, California location that opens this Friday. What’s coming? A new logo that they are launching with silk scarves, an updated website which is now live, more classic styles versus trendy, and styles that build each season instead of starting fresh (more basics and replenishment could also help build margin by decreasing costs).