In this send: Let’s explore a real mix of retail stories. From Gap’s latest earnings (the highs and lows), Rhode heading to Europe this month, and questions I still have about Galliano’s (now) non-exhibit at the Met Costume Exhibit. Plus: Colleen Allen, Toteme’s new t-lock, teal tulle thongs, polka dot anoraks, velour balloon pants, fp movement track pants, exec moves = job openings, the ‘90s Loose Jean, how Bieber gets her billion, the controversy committee, more cummerbunds, and rabbit rabbit rabbit welcome to September!
The Rundown
Fresh Receipts — Colleen Allen, handbags, and denim
Forecasting into Fall — looking at some of the summer trends and which ones are moving into fall
Job Board — retail opportunities. Look where there is movement.
Gap’s Earnings and Old Navy’s Challenges
Rhode is Expanding to Europe
Galliano Bows Out
In My Feed — what I’ve been reading this week
Fresh Receipts
I was admiring new Colleen Allen at Moda Operandi (like this shaped fleece jacket in her signature hook and eye clasps) when an article on FT HTSI was published. The article is part of a lead up to the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, and Allen is one of the finalists. She previously designed menswear for The Row before launching her own brand with an Autumn/Winter 2024 collection. In the article Danielle Goldberg, the stylist, mentioned that she thinks she has dressed almost all of her clients in Allen’s pieces. That should be inspiration enough to shop the line.
Toteme’s new bag: This weekend on Laurel Pantin’s Substack, I noticed she shared this new T-lock box bag from Toteme. It’s a classic shape that reminds me a little of other classic box bags. Like this one, or this one for just under $500 from a French brand with a recent re-brand (you know the one.)
Which sends me into my typical fashion spiral 🌀 — I have their T-lock clutch and even though I haven't carried it much this past year, I still love it. It used to hold its resale value well, but I've noticed lately that so many are floating around secondhand that prices have come down. Good news if you're buying: from personal experience, this leather holds up beautifully — mine still looks new after years of wear, so it's a smart secondhand purchase (or an investment, if you're like me and hoard the pieces you love). All of which makes it a smart move for Toteme to put out a new shape in a style this versatile since the older silhouette is losing some steam. BUT my last spiral 🌀 is would you buy this new if you could get this one for about the same price on secondhand?
EB Denim, founded by Elena Bonvicini in 2015 when she was still in high school by reworking vintage Levi’s. The brand has added another wholesale account (in addition to Revolve, FWRD, Shopbop, Bloomingdale’s) and is now available at Nordstrom.
New Alaïa at Mytheresa. Worth checking out: teal tulle thongs, studded le coeur, if not teal — perhaps purple calf hair thongs, a wide leather belt to wear as a cummerbund, Alaïa calls this blue turquoise and has the balloon pant trend covered.
Forecasting into Fall
I wanted to dig into some of the recent summer trends I’ve been tracking so we can start Forecasting into Fall
Do Polka Dots have staying power?: This was a summer trend that has been covered a lot, but of course it isn’t new. I first saw hints that polka dots would be big this summer when I spotted more dots than stripes at Disneyland in early April. It wasn’t just the Minnie Mouse polka dots, it was plenty of styles from teen brands like Edikted and Garage. For the summer I would blame Dot Cakes for the colorful sprinkles and classic white backgrounds with black dots. Amanda Lee Burkett posted spotting them at the US Open. On my walks I’ve actually noticed a few polka dot anoraks too — I love this tonal one. I’m sure we’ll see some tights too.
Balloon Pants still inflated: Substacks have been stating that these are staying for fall and how to style. Both Bella Gerard covered and Lindsay Sword cited runway trends that prove that fuller volume with an easy pull-on styling have no plans to sail away. I’ve been seeing more and more of the Suzie Kondi pair in velour that seem perfect as the temps drop. I’m also still thinking of these — a rec from a Private Label reader that would be perfect for fall sideline sports cheering. I think instead of joggers we might trend toward these.
Let’s keep it simple, track shorts move to track pants. I think we are sleeping on fp movement (examples here and here). Don’t let the teens have all the fun. And Horse Sport is a favorite for their sweatshirt polo top (I took my smaller size in the top FYI) so the bottoms would be ideal too.
Whether they are raglan t-shirts or baseball t-shirts, a homerun. Gap shared this image on Instagram Monday which is how I started spiraling on the trends we are moving forward with. Gap has their new raglan t-shirt. I also spotted the Donni silk version (Private Label readers can use Sarah10 for 10 percent off). Aqua, Bloomingdale’s Private Label brand, has a cashmere sweater version. Or is football more your sport? I’ll do a separate Forecast on rugbys because I’m really excited for this and this. Stay tuned!
Job Board
I love covering new hires (see my Thursday Deep Dives) and who is opening New Stores (again, never miss a Deep Dive) because it shows you where retailers and brands are investing and likely making organizational changes. Here are a few I’ve spotted recently:
If you are looking for full-time remote and want a front row seat to what Jennifer Hyman is doing at Babylist (whispers and rumors of an IPO I wrote about here). See this opportunity for Senior Director of Content, Social, Creator Marketing.
Evereve is hiring for two new positions: Fashion & Trend Director and SVP of Owned Brands (hello!!! Private Label!) Study up before applying by reading my first Private Label newsletter on Evereve.
Lesley Clifford was previously the VP of Merchandising at Rothy’s. She recently took a new position as VP of Merchandising at Poshmark. Elizabeth von der Goltz is the Chief Revenue Officer at Poshmark and there is clearly a focus on new opportunities at the secondhand marketplace. Poshmark is looking for a merchant.
And now there is a vacant spot at Rothy’s. The Director of Merchandising role is currently accepting applications.
Reporting on Gap’s Portfolio
Gap Inc’s net sales went down 2 percent and comp sales down 1 percent. Last week CEO Richard Dickson posted on Instagram from behind his desk to show us how serious he is about the ho-hum results. But there are a few highlights. Gap (the brand) had its second straight double-digit comp, a really strong run. Banana Republic is feeling steady too. Old Navy went negative for the first time in nearly three years which almost feels like that takes some work considering the challenging economic climate. Athleta is still struggling too. Directly from their presentation on Athleta “We remain focused on disciplined execution as we rebuild the brand profitably.” Gap Brand is masking the bigger problems and let’s talk about why Old Navy needs to get it together.
